The Anza Trail at Pismo Beach Bringing History to Life
By Effie McDermott
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One of my favorite stories is about the Anza Expedition that camped near where the Price House is now. It is amazing to stand on that very ground and say, “This happened here.”
Juan Bautista de Anza was born in about 1734 in New Spain in what is now northern Mexico, close to the present Arizona border. His family was Basque and his father, a Spanish soldier, crossed the Atlantic in the Spanish conquest of the area we now know as Mexico and Southern Arizona. However, when Juan was a small boy there, his father was killed by the Apaches who were fighting to save their homeland from conquest by Spain.
Prior to his death, the senior Anza wanted to establish an overland route for settlers from the interior of Mexico to Alta California. The assembly and jumping off point would be Tubac, (located south of Tucson, Arizona). Young Juan followed in his late father’s footsteps, became a soldier, and worked his way up through the ranks. When he was about 42, he took up his father’s dream of establishing a trail to settle California. Until this time, it was populated with Native Americans, priests at the missions, and soldiers at the presidios.
Anza petitioned the Viceroy for permission to establish an overland route to Alta California. He even offered to finance the expedition himself, which must have made his offer all the more appealing. His request was granted.
He made two round trips along what would come to be known as The Anza Trail. First, he explored it with a small group of soldiers. Then he assembled and led a full expedition of settlers from Tubac to Monterey. Once he had explored the trail, it then took months to ride deep into what is now Mexico to gather volunteers to come with him to Tubac to form the expedition.
When settled in Monterey, and after Anza had returned to his home post, they then launched the settlement of what we now know as San Francisco. Upon Anza’s return home, after the expedition had successfully concluded, he was promoted to Governor of the Spanish territory now known as New Mexico.
Anza was married, but had no children of his own. He raised 2 nephews. He lived only 12 years after the expedition, and died in his early 50s. Juan Bautista de Anza’s legacy is that he brought the first Spanish civilian families to settle Alta California, and that he brought them via the route that he explored and established, now known as The Anza Trail.
The Expedition
To assemble the caravan of settlers, Anza began recruitment a year earlier, in the spring of 1775, 600 miles south of Tubac, in poor areas of New Spain near Culiacán on the west coast. There, amongst the poor, the opportunity of being part of a new settlement would have been attractive in spite of the anticipated hardship of the long journey. He recruited families from Culiacan, Sinaloa, El Fuerte and Alamos. The families made their way to Tubac to assemble for the journey.
Each family was to get free land in the new settlement, but to do so required the man of the house to be a soldier. Free land was available only for those who served in the military, so Anza recruited and trained all the men to be soldiers. There was also a soldier from each of the seven Sonoran presidios. All were encouraged to bring their families.
The expedition consisted of about 300 people. It included the military escort, the muleteers, the cowboys, and 197 settlers. The settlers numbered 110 men, women and teenagers, in addition to 87 children age 12 or under. Half the settlers were children. All survived the journey, except one woman who died the first day out after giving birth. Two babies were born during the journey.
The Journey
The Anza Expedition set out on October 23, 1775, as a traveling city that stretched one mile long. It threaded its way across Arizona and Southern California to ford the Colorado River, deserts and mountains. Anza brought the expedition as far as Monterey, where they arrived on March 1, 1776. He selected a site at Yerba Buena for their new settlement. On June 27, they reached Yerba Buena, and by September, had established the colony that would become San Francisco.
Anza went back home to proudly report on the success of the venture. He was rewarded with an appointment to Governor.
From Tubac, the journey was 1210 miles long and took 5 months. There were 38 families in the expedition who had left their homes months earlier and had already traveled 600 miles to get to Tubac for the historic day of departure. For them the journey was 1800 miles long and lasted many months. On March 1, 1776, they camped in what we now know as Price Canyon. According to National Park Service interpretation of the expedition journals, the head of the caravan camped where the canyon widens just past the narrow curve, and, being a mile long, a portion of the caravan would have been on this area we now know as Price Historical Park.
The expedition brought 1,000 livestock, including 165 pack mules, 340 horses, some brood mares with colts, a few burros, over 300 beef cattle (200 for the new herd in California and 100 for butchering along the way). They brought about 9 tons of supplies and implements. They carried 6 tons of flour, beans, pinole or cornmeal, sugar, and chocolate. Cooking kettles and frying pans, hand tools, and munitions made up another ton. Extra clothing and blankets, another ton. They also brought riding saddles, bridles, pack saddles and equipment, saddle blankets, shoeing tools and nails, and several hundred pounds of dressed iron for making horse and mule shoes.
There was a tent for the commander and his servants, 2 more tents for 3 padres and their assistants, and another 10 tents for the families. Many soldados and the arrieros (mule packers) and vaqueros slept outside.
When the caravan was on the move, first came the people, walking and on horseback. Then the mule train, then the caballada or horse herd, and last were the cattle herd and vaqueros. Every evening the mules were unpacked and every morning the muleteers repacked the supplies on the backs of the mules. When they initially set out, they were accompanied by an extra escort of soldiers from the Tubac presidio to get them safely through Apache territory.
The expedition embarked on their journey after a morning mass and with all joining the padre in
singing the Alabado. The Alabado is a religious song praising God. A version of this song can be found on YouTube as ‘Alabado sea el Santisimo Himno Eucaristico Español’. Padre Pedro Font would start the song and it was picked up and sung by the soldiers, cowboys, mule drivers, men, women and children in the expedition. Their strong voices echoed across the valleys and hills. This is the way they started each morning of the trip.
They trekked northwest through dry hot desert and crossed the swollen Colorado River following a route that would today almost parallel the Mexican border in Southern Arizona as it enters California. (The story of the trip is fascinating but space prohibits its telling here.)
On March 1, 1776, they walked up wide sandy Pismo Beach and turned into Price Canyon. They set up their tents for the night. In the morning they had breakfast and repacked the mules. Although the March rains made the trail muddy, they dressed in their good clothes for arrival at their next camp, Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa.
They began moving when they heard the call to “Mount up!” Singing the Alabado, the line began to move forward through the canyon toward Edna Valley.
Imagine that you hear them singing as they thread their way through Price Canyon.
Sources: To add Effie McDermott’s book, The History of Pismo Beach to your library, email Effie. Garate, Don and Scott, Sandra editor of Juan Bautista de Anza, National Historic Trail; Southwest Parks and Monuments Association, Tucson, Arizona; 1944; Guerrero, Vladimir, the Anza Trail and the Settling of California, a California Legacy Book.